Designer Spotlight; The Landskein

The true meaning of a forever piece when it comes to matters of the wardrobe can often be somewhat of an impulsive idea, never mind a deeply disputable concept - what are the specifics of something being rewarded the promise of forever? Well, when considering something to last a lifetime, THE LANDSKEIN is my ultimate winter-wardrobe-investment destination. It is the beginning, the end + just about everything in between for the perfect forever winter coat selection - if you can hold yourself back + just choose one. Founded by Irish native, Anna Guerin, THE LANDSKEIN came about in 2018 with Guerin’s mission, along with 20 years experience in the fashion industry, to design + manufacture luxury textiles that, steeped in the beauty of home, will stand the test of time, season + occasion.

At the core of this contemporary tailoring brand is the commitment to honouring heritage Irish textiles at a beautifully detailed + consciously considered level, all impeccably designed within a modern aesthetic. Achieving this with such perfection, THE LANDSKEIN consists of luxuriously tailored coats, blazers + scarves, the core + seasonal collections of which embody an easeful sense of opulence with relaxed oversized cuts, drop shoulders + extended style lines. Each piece is hand cut + sewn from authentic Donegal tweed - all exclusive to THE LANDSKEIN - made by hand by fifth-generation weavers in Co. Donegal.

Married with the flawless quality + the sense of quiet luxury of this brand, for me it’s the unstructured silhouettes + the rich tones I just can’t resist. I own two beautiful pieces thus far, one blazer + one coat, both of which make me long all summer long for the colder moments we’re beginning to experience to fully envelope us for the seasons ahead. I’m a Autumn/Winter girl at heart + with AW ‘23 having just recently launched, you could say the new collection has reconfigured my personal style wishlist entirely, bumping the SOLACE coat right up top.

Stocked in luxury retailers such as Brown Thomas, HAVANA Boutique, Emporium Kalu + Peel or shop online directly at —THELANDSKEIN.COM

All images via THE LANDSKEIN

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Shop the HAUTE so FABULOUS Edit of THE LANDSKEIN

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** Disclaimer, some of the links in this article are affiliate links, meaning if you click through + decide to purchase the item, I get a small percentage of the price. Commission is only transferred if you purchase however. You do not pay any more than the store’s recommend retail price.

Designer Spotlight; Tove Studio

Founded by Camille Perry + Holly Wright in 2019, TOVE, meaning strength + beauty in Danish, is a graceful representation of the unshakeable empowerment that evidently weaves itself through the soft structures of the brand’s striking beauty + femininity. Prior to setting up their own brand, the Topshop alumni spent a collective 40 years in the industry as buyer + designer; a time that inspired a shared vision to create pieces that transcend seasons + bring an entirely new idea to wearability yet also embodying a reality of needing less. Each piece has functionality beyond the obvious, proving a rightful place in the solid capsule-style wardrobe of their muse: the real woman, who not only loves her style but feels empowered by a wardrobe that works for her.

While never skimping on quality + the luxuriousness of materials nor the craftsmanship of each design, creating in a low impact manner is one of the brand’s focal points. TOVE aligns with mills to work with excellent fabrics with environmental + social certifications while manufacturing mainly at source, ensuring carbon footprint stays at a minimum.

Check out the brand’s full collection // T O V E - S T U D I O . C O M

All images via TOVE-STUDIO

Documentaries, But Make it Fashion

Here at HSF we’re BIG on documentaries. Delving into the world of others + seeing how they see the world + how such vastly different ways can teach us a whole new perspective on life. We are all about that. As lovers of fashion; fashion as an art far beyond the obvious + much deeper than our next online order, we’re pieced together a list of documentaries that bring you into the world of those who’s lives behind the scenes aren’t necessarily as glamorous as you might thing + those who, without their craft, vision + exemplary talent, the world as we know it would be a completely different place. Not to mention, your wardrobe.

Who Is.. Rick Owens

Crowned the Dark Prince of design or to some the Lord of Darkness, Rick Owens is something of a gothic genius, if not, the epitome of gender neutral dressing and an originator of the idea of goth, but make it fashion.

Born Richard Saturnino Owens, on 18 November 1962 in San Joaquin Valley, California, Owens grew up in a strict and controlled Catholic environment eventually leading him to a deep desire to escape his small town upbringing and make a break for the bright lights of Hollywood. Arriving in L.A, the young designer found himself in the pre-sanitised era of the city’s evolution, a time when L.A was as unwholesome a destination as one could imagine and the hedonistic nature of the time was something he couldn’t resist. 

The American born, Paris based designer started his career in fashion studying fabrics at Otis College of Art and Design before dropping out and moving to a more technical college, gaining knowledge in pattern-making and draping, two skills he is now so infamously known for. He then went on to work for sportswear and knock-off brands around L.A. In 1990 he secured a job at Lamy, a design house headed up by designer Michelle Lamy whom Owens later became business partners with and later again married. Just four years after starting with Lamy however he broke out on his own and started his own namesake brand, showcasing his arrival as a womenswear genius. It wasn’t until 2001 though that his brilliance was truly recognised on a more global level when his work came to the attention of just about everyone in fashion, in 2001, when Anna Wintour, at the helm of Vogue, sponsored his first New York Fashion Week showcase after Kate Moss wore one of his signature leather jackets in a fashion story in French Vogue. Working with stylist Panos Yiapanis on the presentation, it was a huge success and the two have collaborated on every single Rick Owens runway show since. The following year Owens was appointed Creative Director ta Revillon, a French fur house, a post he remained in for five years.  Around this time he broke into menswear and quickly became known for his interpretation of classic silhouettes.

Owens, at one point, a self-confessed savage drinker, often spent his days and nights on massive boozy benders during a period in his life that now thankfully finds itself in his rear view after he eventually stopped upon realising he felt like death on a daily basis. He ultimately sought help to leave the party when it all got too much. A defining life event in which he had a run in with a mugger in 2003 in L.A, saw him make a permanent move to Paris with Lamy, where the two have called it home ever since. 

Over a longstanding and estimable career that has spanned 25 years, Owens has brought to life many of his creative inclinations, from sneakers - his first was named the Dustulator Dunk to furniture - he designed a collection inspired by pieces he originally designed for his Paris HQ. He has collaborated with Adidas and his collections have been the subject of many fashion exhibitions. His work was celebrated in Milan in 2017 with his first major retrospective which chronicled his career to date in a museum exhibition at the Triennale de Milano. 

His collections are always in the hottest colour of each season, black on black on black. Always black. Long t-shirts, asymmetric dresses, avant-garde yet wearable, it’s all about the simple pieces , but always making them fashion. Aesthetically he’s got a post-apocalyptic take on dark glamour, a revered niche that has been described as ‘glamour meets grunge’. He is his own thing and in his own words he says “it’s about an appreciation of teenage angst without actually having the angst”. Perhaps some might say it’s an ideal elegance build on a foundation of rock couture. 

His pieces can be found in obscure boutiques around the world and on the backs of the hottest names in popular culture including Madonna, Kate Moss, A$AP Rocky and Bieber, Cher and Fergie, Rihanna, Kim Kardashian West, fellow designer Vera Wang and Kanye West. 

All Images via Pinterest

Designer Spotlight; Christopher John Rogers

This year the young designer to join an elite legacy that includes the likes of Alexander Wang & Proenza Schouler is the CFDA/Vogue Fashion Fund’s 2019 winner, Christopher John Rogers. Helping to launch the careers of many super talented designers over the last 16 years, the CFDA/Vogue Fashion Fund is a sure sign that Rogers is about to see his career in fashion jump into full throttle and we’re set to be seeing a lot more of him in the years to come.

The budding designer, born in Baton Rouge, Louisiana in 1994, now bases himself in Brooklyn, close to the fashion lime-light of New York’s well established elite. Growing up a Southern Baptist, his Grandmother had a huge influence on him and the way he understood the magic of dressing up. His love of fashion was evidently well established prior to his move to New York; he cleverly taught himself how to sew via tutorials on Youtube and carefully studied every word big designers, who he considers creative heroes, like John Galliano and McQueen would say in backstage interviews after their runway shows. After high school he went on to study at fashion at Savannah College of Art and Design before relocating to New York City. 

He has spoken about the realities of a young designer trying to catch their break in the fashion world and the innate difficulty it entails when you don’t “come from money”. Of his experience, Rogers says “Oh gag. So I actually have no money. I don’t have backers, I have a full-time job as a designer at Diane Von Furstenberg, and I take that money and I buy fabric I can afford and I try to turn the party.” However his diligent and industrious determination seems to be working, beautifully, for in 2017 he dressed Cardi B for the 2017 BET Hip Hop Awards, SZA wore his designs in the Black Panther soundtrack’s “All the Stars” video and in that same year Tracee Ellis Ross donned a look from his SS19 collection. Just a year later he showed his first full NYFW show in September 2018 at the age of 23.

So in a whirlwind and short career to date, he has quickly established himself a firm favourite and someone the industries leaders are watching very closely, not to mention as a creator of avant-garde evening wear that, in all it’s excessive beauty, is something of a magical spectacle. His belief that there’s “nothing wrong in effortful dressing” beams through in his designs and he creates with a mindset that allows women feel seen and heard. A look by Rogers is always big, bold and ravishingly engaging. He recently received a well-deserved standing ovation for his SS20 NYFW runway presentation and in the audience to support him were some of the industries top designers and influential figureheads including his former boss Diane von Furstenberg, Kerby Jean-Raymond of Pyer Moss, Alejandra Alonso Rojas, Adam Selman and Joseph Altuzarra. Self-proclaimed lovers of Rogers creations who have publicly worn his designs include celebrities from Michelle Obama and Rihanna to Lizzo, Ashley Graham and Kat Graham. 

With the help of the CFDA/Vogue Fashion Fund’s financial prize of $400,000 and a year of invaluable mentorship from top industry insiders, ahead of him alongside his innate and towering talent, we’re absolutely sure Rogers is here for the long haul. 

Follow Christopher John Rogers on Instagram

Designer Spotlight; Mother of Pearl

The perfect amount of classic with a flawless touch of twist, Mother of Pearl is a brand on a mission to evolve the way we consume fashion: reducing the impact we have on the planet while always remaining style forward. Never boring and always on trend, the London based sustainable label is one of the industry’s leaders in terms of quality and contemporary design while also being uber conscious of bringing an all important element of heart and spirit to the market: a transparent label that celebrates individuality and authenticity. 

With a base in East London, the relatively young fashion label never compromises on design, creating inspired collections that bring strength to our intricacies and a softness to the power dresser within. Printed luxe fabrics and carefully designed details come together to form it’s foundations with an equal focus on casual and luxury. Each piece has a voice of it’s own and can play both roles, that of an effortless everyday wardrobe staple or with a little elevation, can be brought out for something more significant and special.

The British luxury womenswear brand was founded back in 2002. It’s current Creative Director, Amy Powney,  who joined in 2006 - just 4 years after it’s formation, began her journey within from the bottom, sweeping the floors of the cutting-room floor, working her way up to the top and stepping into the role of Creative Director in 2015. Understanding each and every element of the company as a whole, she has brought the label the forefront of the industry and continues to build the brand’s stellar reputation season by season. Informed and inspired by her upbringing in Northern England, Powney draws upon her love of the 90’s and 2000’s - the era of her teenage years and is often creatively motivated by the critical social photographers and fashion shoots of those times. 

Showing at London Fashion week and stocked at some of the world’s most prestigious retailers including Saks Fifth Avenue, Neiman Marcus, Net-a-Porter, Harrods and Goop, Mother of Pearl is something of a modern day beauty, combining a distinctive elegance with that cooler-younger-sister-IT-girl vibe.

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SHOP MOTHER OF PEARL

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Images: AW19 Mother of Pearl Campaign

Who Is.. Mr. Pearl

With his 18 inch trained waistline, Mark Erskine-Pullin famously known as Mr. Pearl is something of a 21st century genius and a mysterious father figure in the fashion world. It is not just his commitment to his beloved craft as a corsetier - he wears a corset 24 hours a day, 7 days a week (relieving himself of the garments only to bath) - that he really skyrocketed to fame but rather the fact that he is arguably the most iconic, talented and sought-after corset maker in existence. 

Born in South Africa in 1962, he grew up in a working class family and lived a modest life there with his father Neil, an English toolmaker and his half-English, half-Dutch mother Yvette. Upon their divorce however, he was sent to live with his grandparents Hetty and Ruben Searle. Falling in love with corsets and the art of waist training at a young age, his fascination was encouraged living with his Grandmother, where he would lace her into her corsets upon her request and, loving every minute of it, so his journey into the fashion world was born. Feeling under much pressure to conform, Pullin married a South African actress but later ended it before moving to London, where he found his freedom. He worked as a dresser and costume designer for the Royal Opera House in Covent Garden by day and by night he was a regular nightclub attendee and performer - going under his alter ego “Pearl”; it was later that Isabella Blow named him “Mr. Pearl”, which has stuck ever since. 

After a stint working under the legendary performance artist, fashion designer and club promoter, Leigh Bowery, Pullin moved to Paris to pursue his career as a corsetier after meeting designer Thierry Mugler at the Love Ball in New York City. Paris has become his home and there he works on a made-to-order basis for private clients only. Marking a history of controversy, the corset is often seen as a symbol of female oppression, yet to the contrary a sign of sexuality, power and the pursuit of pleasure. For Pullin it is a form of self-discipline and of his work he says, “it is not about being fashionable. I do not follow fashion at all. I’m interested in an ideal, a kind of expression of elegance, which really has nothing to do with fashion”.

From conception to materialisation, a Mr. Pearl piece can take months of hard work and craftsmanship. Mr. Pearl has produced creations for designers such as Chloe, John Galliano, Thierry Mugler, Jean Paul Gaultier, Alexander McQueen, Christian Lacroix and Antonio Berardi, while celebrities like Kylie Minogue, Jerry Hall, Sophie Dahl, Victoria Beckham, Kim Kardashian not forgetting his long-term collaborator Dita Von Teese have been known to wear his designs. 

In a time when fashion is fast and seasons are multiplying, there’s something nurturing in the fact that Mr. Pearl’s work will always take time. His dedication to the art sees him refuse to use any form of modern technology in the making of his famously extravagant and opulent inventions. And so it stands that if you’re in the market for one of the world’s most iconic corsets, Paris is calling.