Designer Spotlight; Mother of Pearl

The perfect amount of classic with a flawless touch of twist, Mother of Pearl is a brand on a mission to evolve the way we consume fashion: reducing the impact we have on the planet while always remaining style forward. Never boring and always on trend, the London based sustainable label is one of the industry’s leaders in terms of quality and contemporary design while also being uber conscious of bringing an all important element of heart and spirit to the market: a transparent label that celebrates individuality and authenticity. 

With a base in East London, the relatively young fashion label never compromises on design, creating inspired collections that bring strength to our intricacies and a softness to the power dresser within. Printed luxe fabrics and carefully designed details come together to form it’s foundations with an equal focus on casual and luxury. Each piece has a voice of it’s own and can play both roles, that of an effortless everyday wardrobe staple or with a little elevation, can be brought out for something more significant and special.

The British luxury womenswear brand was founded back in 2002. It’s current Creative Director, Amy Powney,  who joined in 2006 - just 4 years after it’s formation, began her journey within from the bottom, sweeping the floors of the cutting-room floor, working her way up to the top and stepping into the role of Creative Director in 2015. Understanding each and every element of the company as a whole, she has brought the label the forefront of the industry and continues to build the brand’s stellar reputation season by season. Informed and inspired by her upbringing in Northern England, Powney draws upon her love of the 90’s and 2000’s - the era of her teenage years and is often creatively motivated by the critical social photographers and fashion shoots of those times. 

Showing at London Fashion week and stocked at some of the world’s most prestigious retailers including Saks Fifth Avenue, Neiman Marcus, Net-a-Porter, Harrods and Goop, Mother of Pearl is something of a modern day beauty, combining a distinctive elegance with that cooler-younger-sister-IT-girl vibe.

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SHOP MOTHER OF PEARL

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Images: AW19 Mother of Pearl Campaign

Edelle Kenny, The Interview

Edelle Kenny is an Irish, New York City based photographer, videographer and freelance TV producer. She has worked on major global campaigns, shooting top models and influencers, not to mention her work as a producer with the Discovery Channel. Edelle’s work is a beautiful mix of sultry and sexy with a depth of meaning very distinctive to her style. She lives and works in Manhattan and here we speak to her about her life as a photographer, her thoughts on comparisons and competition and what her dream shoot would be..

Edelle, tell us about your path into the photography world?

I’ve always been a very visual person and loved to document moments on point and shot cameras growing up. When I was 18 I started a PLC in Media and Communications and one of our modules was photography. It was probably my favourite module but I decided to pursue television and documentary and unfortunately my interest fell by the wayside for a few years. When I moved to New York I had access to different cameras in my day job and I started taking them home on the weekend to teach myself. I actually still have the first 60 photos I shot. I remember being too nervous to take photos of people. I used to go to Tiffany’s on 5th Avenue because they would have models as door men and I would creepily just shoot them standing outside. From there I decided to try make a side hustle and began shooting portraits and ‘looks’ for influencers to try build up my skills . Eventually I started booking more and more jobs via photography with private clients, brands and companies. 

 You’ve made a professional career of your passion which is something so admirable and not many can truly say they’ve achieved, how do you balance between personal preferences as a creator and your clients wishes when working on commercial work? 

This is a tough one. Like any artist or creative knows, if your work is your passion, but you are only willing to take jobs that are your creative preference, you will most certainly go hungry and broke.

For me, if I am not 100 percent invested and excited about a project I am unfulfilled. For a long time I found myself taking every photography job offered to make ends meet and then essentially not enjoying what I was creating and loosing interest in my passion. So I came up with a solution. I decided to spilt my time, I went back to working freelance in television and when a photography job came up that I was really really excited about, I would take it. 

How does the creative process happen when you’re working on a shoot?

While working on a shoot creative process always starts with a concept and deciding ‘What is the story behind what we are trying to create”? Even if the end results don’t necessarily project that story as a narrative, it’s a good vibe to remember on the day. No two minds are alike so I will usually ask for the client to present me with some visuals that inspire them and I will also create a mood-board of what is in my head and only then do we merge. On the day of the shoot, you shoot and adapt. Sometimes we’ll be trying to capture something we thought we wanted and instead the opposite will feel right, so you adjust to go with that. Everyones input is considered, make up artists, hairstylists, assistants, absolutely everyone gets involved.

On the relationship between you and the subjects you work with, how do you cultivate an environment that allows them to come to life in a way necessary for the shoot?

THE most important thing, in my opinion, is cultivating a comfortable and relaxed environment for your subject. If your photo is technically perfect and your model is uncomfortable, it means nothing. If your photo is slightly out of focus or under exposed but your model is showing their personality, then you can say it’s a great photo. You can fix photos in photoshop, you can’t fix emotions. I always sit and chat with the subject, get to know them, and ease them into a shoot.

We live in a very digital focussed generation, with so many people now creating content directly on their phones, what are your thoughts on it all and would we ever catch you using yours to capture moments in time?

I hear a lot of photographers give out about iPhone photography saying slightly passive-aggressively ‘Oh everyone is a photographer today’, and frankly, in my opinion, that’s the truth. Everyone can take a photo much like everyone is able to sing. But, it’s subjective, and I think artists need to find solace in that concept. Know that it’s subjective. Your vision of beauty is and never will be the same as someones else’s. If you have the ability to capture something that at least one other person can say beautiful, then settle for that. And if someone else is able to create that happiness with an iPhone picture, then it’s just another piece of good in the world.  Good photography is not about a beautiful person with a blurred background and perfect skin texture, (which iPhones can do amazingly now), that is good advertising! Good photography is about the beauty of this world and how you see it and sharing your point of view with the rest of us. So long story short, I am here for iPhone photography, the more beauty we can share the better. 

In saying that, I try not to use my phone for photography because I don’t think I would ever switch off. If I know I will want to take photos I bring my camera. But, if I feel I need to switch off, I leave it and home and don’t take pictures with my phone either. My camera roll is shamelessly full to the brim with screenshots of memes. 

How is photographing a celebrity or model different from photographing a regular person?  The only difference I find is the crew size. I never behave differently. I get one on one with the subject and find the connection between us. Whether it’s an international super model or if a 14 year old getting her portrait taken and we bond over favourite school subjects.People are people and everyone is a human on set in search of making that connection to feel comfortable.

Where do you find yourself most inspired?

I find myself most inspired in lower Manhattan; the personalities, the style, the stories are amazing there. It’s at times overwhelming. I walk by these two men every morning who sit and play music on their stoop and chat with all the regular neighbours. They wear very unique clothes and I always think, I just want to follow you all day with a camera. 

Do you ever get creative blocks? How do you deal with them?

Creative blocks are something I used to think where crippling and I would let them own me. I would stop posting on social media and watch other people thrive and beat myself up over it. Until I learned to give into creative blocks and see them as creative breaks. I think that’s something that is important to realise, when you’re a creative, you never switch off because you’re pulling inspiration from everywhere and everything; from the light than comes into your bedroom window the moment you wake up to the way the street lights catch a silhouette in the dead of night, it’s exhausting! Allow yourself a break and let your creative mind readjust and grow!

When do you know you have the perfect shot?

I wish I had an insightful answer for this but I just feel it. There’s always that one shot you take and you just shout, ‘this is it, we got it’ . Ironically, when you go into edits, it’s not the one you choose but that feeling on the day is usually where I put the camera down or move on. 

Living in a big city where creatives relocate to thrive, there’s so much competition; to what do you attribute your success thus far?

Competition. A word and concept I’m learning to remove myself from in every aspect of my personal and professional life. If you can lay your head on your pillow at night and know that you gave everything you had that day, it’s good enough. I remember one time I applied for a Photography Incubation Space. I went to the open day to meet the organisers to do an interview. I brought what I thought was my best work. They told me I wasn’t suitable and then referenced the excellence and creative intelligence of what was currently in the incubator. The series of photos they referenced, was a self portrait photo of a man’s testicles sticking out of his fly with a piece of pink bubblegum stuck to them. I’m not doubting this as art, but I remember leaving the studio and crying the whole way home on the subway because I was comparing myself to a testicle poking out through a pair of yellow cords. I considered giving up on photography. But trust me, DO NOT compare yourself and never ever give up. 

What’s your favourite photograph that you’ve taken.. and the one you wish you’d taken?

I go through phases but the one that immediately comes to mind is of a dear friend Ruthy. Ruth is a beautiful girl who modelled before and we see each other every week, on paper it seemed like the perfect match to shoot immediately but, we didn’t. Something didn’t feel right and I am glad we waited. When we met we were very chalk and cheese and as our friendship developed we began to understand each other more and right before she left New York I asked her to shoot. This photo is the perfect merge between our personalities. Sharp, blurred lines, sexual and reserved.

The photo I wish I had taken, with out a doubt, is ANYTHING shot by Vivian Maier.

If you were to land your absolute dream shoot, what would it be, where and with who?

Dream shoot would defintitely be with Nat Geo, photographing lost tribes. 

Who in the industry inspires you?

On a fashion visual standpoint, Matteo Montanari. His ability to photograph fashion in an effortless and documentary style is beautiful. 

For commercial and street photography, it’s a fellow Dubliner turned NewYorker, Rich Gilligan.  

Do you have any tips for those wishing too build a career as a photographer?

Take photos of what you love and take loads. You don’t need the best equipment on the market. Do it on a disposable. Curate your eye and don’t be afraid to stop people in the street and say, can I shoot you.

Follow Edelle on Instagram

Designer Spotlight: Gareth Pugh

Gareth Pugh is a British fashion designer renowned for his fantastical and futuristic designs, an aesthetic unparalleled in the industry since perhaps the dark and dreamy era of McQueen’s. Born August 31st 1981, Pugh grew up in Sunderland in the United Kingdom and was an avid dancer as a child. The famed designer started his career in fashion, close to where his passions lay, at the youthful age of 14 when he began working as a costume designer for the English National Youth Theatre as part of the Wayne McGregor Company, the celebrated resident choreographic company at Sadler’s Wells, London. 

Later he went on to study his craft, beginning his fashion studies at the City of Sunderland College and later completing his formal education at the prestigious Central Saint Martin's. Upon graduating in 2003, his final collection was selected for the cover of cult British magazine Dazed & Confused, something that catapulted him into a whole new realm of fame and popularity as a young budding designer.

In 2005, Pugh was asked to design for Kylie Minogue’s Showgirls tour, a project from which came the opportunity to design for Lady Gaga, Roisin Murphy, Beyonce and Rihanna on their world tours. His earlier life as a dancer has continued to have a thread throughout his career in fashion, seeing him design costumes for Alea Sands at the Paris Opera Ballet and Eliogabalo at the Paris Opéra. 

His creative tendencies do not stop at dressing the worlds most elite stars and fashionistas though; his love of film has seem him collaborate with director Ruth Hogben and creative genius Nick Knight on fashion films, one of which, A Beautiful Darkness examines our internal dispute between chaos and control alongside the journey we take through the fluctuating states of sanity. His work holds an immense profoundness and he consistently seeks to wow through his search for the dark, unapologetic depths of creativity that aren’t always perfectly placed or wonderfully beautiful. 

He opened his first boutique in Hong Kong in 2010 and is stocked in major international boutiques and department stores such as Opening Ceremony, SAKS Fifth Avenue, Barneys and Bergdorf Goodman in New York, Selfridges and Dover Street Market in London, Colette in Paris, IT and Joyce in Hong Kong and Side by Side in Japan. His work has been featured in all the top fashion publications including W, Vogue, Harper’s Bazaar and LOVE.

Pugh lives and works in London where he currently shows at London Fashion Week and has an ongoing collaboration with choreographer Wayne McGregor. 

garethpughstudio.com

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SHOP GARETH PUGH

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What Is.. The Ricari Method

Born in Beverly Hill, Los Angeles the Ricari Method is something of a modern day take on a classic tradition. Created by wellness connoisseur Anna Zahn, the cult L.A lymphatic drainage treatment is a cellular approach to great skincare and the fundamental first step in bring your body to the next level. Ricari - which is an Italian word, derived from the word “ricaria” which translates directly to “reharge” is a wellness spa that aims to rejuvenate and restore our bodies to their best through the stimulation of the lymphatic system. 

Incorporating varying procedures - within the overall treatment - from deep dry-brushing and time in an infrared sauna to drainage massage with the use of a hi-powered medical vacuum style machine, the Ricari Method works to purify the inner workings of our bodies, boosting blood flow and circulation - all of which naturally plays an immensely important part of any extraordinary skincare routine. Ricari sessions mean you’re getting a clear foundation to a more comprehensively healthy body, leaving room for more effective aesthetic results.

Responsible for so many aspects of our overall health, the lymphatic system is in charge of the elimination of waste from the bloodstream, production of lymphocytes to take-down dangerous the absorption of fat and specific vitamins from food which have a knock-on effect on cellulite, bloating, moods, skin and your overall immunity. So taking care of it means taking care of endless other facets of the body. 

Zahn recently opened a pop-up on Mercer Street in NYC’s SoHo neighbourhood and in her successful launch on the East Coast, it seems the favourable outcome of her venture is that she’s been convinced to open a permanent location in the city by Spring 2020. And let’s face it, if celebrities and models like Camille Rowe, Romee Strijd, Amanda Chantal Bacon and Dree Hemingway have Ricardi Studio on speed dial, then I guess, treating your body like you treat your face has just become that bit more fabulous and alluring than ever before.

Book a session in Los Angeles // New York // London

Images Ricari Studios

12 of the Best Red Lipsticks

Whether you’re more into something silky and smooth or mate and moody, a good red lipstick can change everything.. and I mean everything. It’s a statement of confidence and one of the most instant attainments of an" “ok world, I’m ready for you” kind of mood, of course not forgetting the tiny detail that takes many an outfit from day to night in the simple swipe of an application. High-pigment is vital for a power play while slightly more subtle options that can be worn during the day are also a good addition to your lipstick wardrobe. Here we look at 12 of the best on the beauty market, from MAC’s cult favourite Ruby Roo to Tom Ford’s ever classic take on the world of red in Armie 33 from the Boys & Girls II collection and of course one of my all time favourites, Modern Matte Powder Lipstick in Flame 509 from Shiseido.

CHANEL

ALLURE Luminous Intense Lip Colour in Pirate // £31

Shop here...

L’ORÉAL

Color Riche Matte Addiction in Haute Rouge // £7.99

Shop here..

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TOM FORD

Boys & Girls II in Armie 33 // £30

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BOBBI BROWN

Luxe Lip Color in Parisian Red // £25

Shop here..

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SHISEIDO

ModernMatte Powder Lipstick in Flame 509 // £25

Shop here..

RIMMEL

Lasting Finish By Kate Moss in shade 01 // £5.49

Shop here..

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LANCÔME

L'Absolu Rouge Drama Matte Lipstick in shade 507 Dramatic // £27

Shop here..

GIORGIO ARMANI

Rouge d'Armani Matte Lipstick in shade 401 // £31

Shop here..

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CHARLOTTE TILBURY

Matte Revolution in shade Red Carpet Red // £25

Shop here..

NARS

Semi-Matte Lipstick in Jungle Red // £23

Shop here..

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MAC COSMETICS

Retro Matte Lipstick in Ruby Roo // £17.50

Shop here..

REVLON

Revlon SuperLustrous Matte Lipstick in shade Reds Rule the World // £7.99

Shop here..

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Designer Spotlight; Sophie Buhai

It’s not always easy to follow your heart but taking the lead from Sophie Buhai, self-reinvention seems all too easily attainable, not to mention rather stylish. 

Leading the way as the ultimate example of originality, Sophie Buhai is firmly back in her native LA lifestyle, having left her life in NYC and selling her stake in Vena Cava, the clothing line she co-founded and designed with her friend Lisa Mayock, straight out of Parsons. With 10 years experience in the industry, not to mention a manic New York City paced career in the rearview, she took a year out to develop other passions. During that time, Sophie thoughtfully designed her newly purchased home which led to her organic movement into an interiors role - a role she still holds today, designing for fashion insiders. However, it was in 2015 that she truly found her feet, launching her namesake jewellery brand, Sophie Buhai. Housed on her website, alongside a wide variety of life-style findings she has discovered along the way, including a Natalie Smith painting, Mark Pavlovits homeware and an Elsa Peretti terracotta vase, her designs and collections have been received with significant regard. Known now for her beautifully bold yet powerfully delicate modernist pieces, Sophie continues to reinvent the world of sculptural silhouettes, bringing to life her take on modern classics.

Shop the collection now at Net-A-Porter.com

Image Credits 1 // 2 // 3 // 4 // 5 // 6 // 7 // 8 // 9