Stockholm, A Total Love Story

Admittedly, upon meeting the city of my dreams, we were entirely on cloud 9 + enveloped in the love of us. However, I am entirely certain it wasn’t purely due to my just-married beaming heart that I fell absolutely head over heels in love with Stockholm. It was just 72 hours after we said “I do”, that my husband (I really love saying that) + I landed in Sweden for some time to ourselves following our wedding celebrations + magical time spent with loved ones, for what was a first time for both of us in this most stunning city.

As an aesthete + lover of beauty in all capacities, this city had always been high on my list of places I knew I would connect with on a very deep level. Beautiful, sleek + entirely a vibe, Stockholm exceeded all our expectations + currently sits as somewhere we loved so much that we’re considering an extended period of time there in the very near future. It’s chic.. like chic with a major capital C.

To be honest, as it was just following our wedding, all we really wanted of the time away was to be with each other + to step into a very chilled out vibe; the need to explore as I normally would a new + previously undiscovered city, simply wasn’t as burning as would be my standard plan of total immersion. This lack of urgency in our examinations of journeying through the city actually gave us another perspective of being in the moment, a total time for relaxation, something that can be quite difficult when taking in so much newness in new-to-you parts of the world yet we found Stockholm to be perfect for this type of aimless wandering while perfectly punctuated by beautiful landmarks, galleries + museums, stunning stores, boutiques + cafés worth popping into for yet another hot chocolate or coffee.

It was November + we were blessed to witness the first snowfall of the season which, in our romantic bubble, was so special to wake up to on our first morning along with the most breathtaking sunrise over Stockholm Harbor, witnessing it from our balcony at Hotel Diplomat where we based ourselves for the week. From Hotel Diplomat we ventured out to absorb, at our ease. From lunches + dinners in a variety of picks from some amazing recommendations + strolling the beautiful stores - some beautiful local finds + other well-known brands of Swedish heritage - to taking in the exquisite architecture + design that meets you around every corner, all amid the clear blue skies, crisp cold air + the dream of an evening back at Hotel Diplomat’s hammam + sauna. Each day a dreamy dip into the world of all that Stockholm has to offer.

Wrapping up to take in this sophisticated city is a must in November, it’s freezing but - of course - everyone makes it incredibly stylish. As someone who loves style, it’s truly hypnotic. People watching is breathtaking + there is an endless abundance of shopping - perhaps the best I’ve ever under taken - from (my all-time favourite) Totême (shout out to Elin, the HQ’s incredible manager + personal shopper who helped me further deepen my love of everything Totême creates) + of course, Acne to some of the chicest beauty brands like Mantle + Verso + the exquisite leather goods brand Palmgrens, not forgetting jewellery brand Ennui Atelier; quite frankly the elegant, cool, sleek vibe of Swedish brands is inexhaustible. Pack light as the temptations are all too tempting, trust me. All of these are linked below for your reference.

In terms of my daily movement practice, I found myself returning to Remedy each day which, by + of itself could make me move to Stockholm just to be able to soak up the positive energy of this incredible studio. Founded by Carita Lesche + Amelie Parchami of Stockholm Pilates Centre (the sister studio which is also incredible so try that too), Remedy is a self-care package for your mind, body + soul. It was here that my love of teacher Camilla Ahlqvist (of The Practice) was born along with the sound bath practices of Miriam Morgenstern + garuda classes by founder Amelie. A genuine sanctuary. Continuing my love of movement, classes at STHLM Barre are a must, I’m a huge pilates fan in general + the classes here are so fire! The barre burn is so real. IYKY.

And to top of the appreciation of some time spent delving into the realm of self-care, while my husband did his thing, I spent time treating myself to a treatment (or three) with the incredible Mia Hjalmarsson, owner of Mia Hjalmarsson Skincare, Beauty + Holistic Wellness which has treatment rooms in Hotel Diplomat, where we stayed. I also ventured to her other location at Villa Dagmar (sister hotel to Hotel Diplomat) to try a holistic energy + lymphatic massage with Linda who is also incredible.

So while I can safely say that yes we were on cloud nine on this post wedding trip together, I know that this city, beyond it’s meaning to us at that special time in our lives, is somewhere we’ll love again + again.

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STOCKHOLM, THE HSF EDIT

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H O T E L S // Hotel Diplomat // Villa Dagmar // Miss Clara // Ett Hem // Nobis Hotel // Berns

A R T // Fotografiska // Moderna Museet // Galleri Magnus Karlsson // Fargfabriken // Acne Archive

D I N E // The Restaurant at Villa Dagmar // AG // Café Nizza // Nosh + Chow // Nour // Ichi // Fotografiska // ChiÔi // FRÄMMAT // Naboterrassen //

C O F F E E S T O P S // Butiken Diplomat // Café Pascal // Vete-Katten // Sempre Espresso Bar // Schmaltz //

S H O P S // Toteme Flagship // Palmgrens // Grandpa Store // APLACE // COW Parfymeri // NK Stockholm // Acne Flagship // Svenskt Tenn

M O V E M E N T + W E L L N E S S // Remedy // Stockholm Pilates Centre // The Practice // Beaty treatments at Mia Hjalmarsson // STHLM Barre // HEAT by Sophia Lie //

B R A N D S // Mantle // Toteme // All Blues // Ennui Atelier // Acne // House of Dagmar // Byredo // Sachajuan // Palmgrens // Lisa Yang

W I N E // Cave Nizza (Drop in only) // Blanche + Hierta // Balzac

Milan; An Aesthetes Dream

As someone who comes to life in places that evoke a sense of inspired creativity, Milan is definitely a fun place for me to be. Taking a look at some of the places I love in a city I adore, I’m thrilled for my inner aesthete to share just a moment of reverence + appreciation for the parts of Milan that, in all their glory don’t really need to be explained but simply cherished, those contemporary touches that ignite a deep love of design + something only the Italians can do so tastefully.

I’ve been blessed to visit this playful city many times. Most recently, my Love + I spent a few nights, late this summer, one of which was with loved ones after a beautiful few weeks in Lake Como + the remaining just the two of us before catching the train up to Venice - something I absolutely recommend. Each time I visit Milan, I find another part of it I love, another corner previously undiscovered to me + somehow a somewhat deeper appreciation of it’s immensely rich culture + the incomparable vibrancy that makes it so current. What I love most about Milan perhaps are it’s modern touches. The parts of it that speak the beautiful language of contemporary design amid some of it’s more ancient expressions + backdrops. To me, in the most elegant of ways, Milan feels like the bold + more daring little sister to Rome’s more traditional heritage. It is the cooler, more fun one you want to have at your party.

I’ve stayed in several hotels over the years, but one we love + have returned to several times is Room Mate Giulia which was a recommendation from one of my best friends. It is a perfect base thanks to it’s central location while it’s amazing price point + cute vibe make for the ideal place from which to embark upon your Milanese adventure. From here everything is pretty much within walking distance (I walk a lot on city breaks so perhaps check out your own tolerance on maps) + Milan, like any city, is best enjoyed on foot, taking in the Italian capital of fashion be it on sunnier summer days or chic-ly wrapped up in your winter layers.

I always start my days in Milan at a local tabaccaio - those idyllic neighbourhood cafés where locals routinely pop in for their elegant morning espresso + a quick chat before heading off to capture their day. This most recent trip was spent taking in some of my favourite museums, coffee stops + simply strolling endlessly with my Love. In alignment with the very minimalist perspective + way of living, some of the most incredible places for me to visit are always Fondazione Prada + Armani/Silos. Both of these incredible museums warrant unlimited time to explore, relax into + soak up the endless inspired energy each is so bursting with. And then when it comes to a more old-world Italian vibe, Villa Necchi + Casa degli Atellani definitely bring the Italiano energy.

Of course there are the local masterpieces too; the famous Gothic Duomo cathedral, La Scala + Da Vinci’s The Last Supper mural are all part of the Milan experience - that wonderful aspect of Europe I love so much where ancient creations are simply just there.. to be enjoyed + embraced but without that intense commercialization of modern living. There’s an unspoken sense of cool in the coolness of it all. From the old to the new, Milan has it all. And it’s deservedly unapologetic about it too.

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The HAUTE so FABULOUS Milan List

H O T E L S // ARMANI Hotel (see my piece on it HERE) // Room Mate Giulia // Senato Hotel Milano // Magna Pars L'Hotel à Parfum // Hotel Viu Milano // Vico Milano

A R T + M U S E U M S // Fondazione Prada // Armani/Silos // Villa Necchi // Pirelli HangarBicocca // Mudec, Museum of Culture // Triennale di Milano // Villa Panza // La Vigna di Leonardo (da Vinci’s vineyard) // Casa degli Atellani

C O F F E E + G E L A T O // Sant Ambroeus // Bar Luce (see my piece on this HERE) // Pasticceria Marchesi // Emporio Armani Café // Il Massimo del Gelato // Ciacco // Gelateria Paganelli //

W I N E + D I N E // Carlo e Camilla in Segheria // Seta // Bar Basso (where the Negroni Sbagliato, a close relative of the Negroni, originated) // Trippa // UGO cocktail bar // 10 Corso Como (best for lunch in the sunshine) // Dolce + Gabbana Martini Bar (see my piece HERE) // Ceresio 7 // Bice //

S H O P S // 10 Corso Como // Antonia // Armani Libri // Nilufar Depot // Richard Ginori // Excelsior // L’Arabesque // Biffi // Antonioli // Slam Jam // Acqua di Parma // La Rinascente // GUM

A Winter Weekend in Montreal, France

Planning a trip to the South of France may, as a default, come to mind as something firmly on your summer to-do list but what if the perfect Winter weekend away could be spent elegantly in the magical surrounds and the wonderfully French backdrop of Montréal, tucked away at Camellas-Lloret at the beginning of December. 

With a short three nights and four days to spare, my Love and I set off on a romantic weekend together that saw us fly into Carcassonne airport from Dublin. Direct flights with Ryanair are irresistibly inexpensive in the off-season months. What took us there? Well, it was almost two years ago that I found a dreamy hotel on Instagram and ever since I just knew it was a place my soul absolutely needed to experience in this lifetime. I was prepared for Camellas-Lloret being a wonderful little haven but in all honesty, it is even dreamier in real-life than I could ever have anticipated (and my oh my the dreaminess is off the charts on their wonderfully curated Instagram account).

Set in the medieval hilltop village of Montréal in the Languedoc region, Camellas-Lloret, is the epitome of what one would imagine everything to be in the South of France (this was our first ever visit), refined yet rustic, touchable yet otherworldly beautiful. A ‘love-project’ of a beautiful couple Annie (a New Yorker) and Colin (from South Africa) Moore, the 18th-century house boasts the most incredible, authentic original structure. With five uniquely designed bedrooms, a simple but beautiful walled garden, the enticing greenhouse which plays home to the lemons and mandarins that make their way to the tables each morning for breakfast in the form of Annie’s marmalade and a terrace perfectly fit for summer evenings dripping in rosé, the place is so divine that you could spend a month and never leave. 

Annie, an interior designer and someone whom I think I'd like to be the I grow up (she’s great at everything from wonderful chats, marmalade making, baking, photography, cooking and just generally being fabulous) - is from New York and has designed the house to feel like ‘home’. White-washed walls and draping vintage linens, contrasting textures with original chandeliers and old-world sculptures are met with the chicest of the chic modern touches throughout. With furniture slipcovers, the perfect kind of magazine stacks and all the buildings original pine flooring, it is founded on authentically refined French elegance along with the toppings of a truly talented interior designer and is exactly where one finds peace and space to relax, surrounded by the kind of beauty found only in the South of France. 

Colin is fantastic with kindly helping guests plan out their days if you are set on exploring the areas around Montréal. His suggested routes guided us to wonderful cafes, tapas bars, museums, the local castle and a beautiful little village nearby famous for its bookstores. All in all, winter weekends at Camellas-Lloret are all about long lie-ins as the sun beams through the shutters, afternoon strolls exploring the beautiful countryside, followed by a glass of white beside the crackling fire, which is where we spend our evenings reading, all cosied up catching up on our favourite books and enjoying wonderful conversations with Annie and Colin. 

Whether you visit in summer or winter, find yourself there for a night or a month, it is a haven that re-ignites the soul and leaves you wondering how you’ll ever leave. 

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LOCATION

Montréal, France just a 10/15 minute drive from Carcassonne Airport or one hour from Toulouse

RATES

Starting from €140 per room per night

WHAT TO DO & SEE

Incredible local antique/vintage shopping

Get lost in the surroundings of the Cathar castles

Book in for a body and attitude balancing session with Colin who is a world-renowned doctor of Chiropractic and a wellness coach

Head off for afternoon bike rides by the Canal du Midi

(In summer) Spend your days on beautiful Mediterranean beaches

Spend time relaxing at the house with a book and rosé (all day)

Organise a wine tasting and visit near-by vineyards

TIPS

Renting a car is essential to explore the surrounding towns and villages

Families are very welcome but really the property is much more oriented toward and appreciated by adults

TO BOOK

You can contact Annie directly at annie@camellaslloret.com

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To book, you can contact Annie directly at annie@camellaslloret.com

Rio de Janeiro

Visiting new and foreign lands is one of my favourite ways to spend my life and in admitting my ignorance in knowing little to almost nothing of Brazil before landing there, I can't quite begin to describe just how fabulous our trip there was last year. 

There to attend one of my Love's best friend's wedding just north of Rio in Buzios, we decided to take a little longer in travelling to the other side of the world and added time on either end of the special occasion in order to explore this country so rich in culture, art and an altogether otherworldly authentic way of living that neither of us had ever quite experienced despite both of our insane weakness for travel.

First stop though was Rio. Gosh where to begin in attempting to narrate this somewhat cryptic city that even after spending a long weekend in we left with an overall sense of mystery that unless living as a local one might never quite gain a complete understanding of. Beyond beautiful in it's insanely unrefined yet splendid rawness, it's a definite mix of all sorts of contrasts and differences; darkness and light, poverty and wealth, beach-living and dangerous alleyways. With no doubt an endless array of things to do, people to meet and experiences that will live with you for life, it's full of wonders to explore and experience.

Today I'm thrilled to share with you all that we lived and loved and can most definitely say what brought to life this city as our home if even for use those three short days..

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Stay

I love a good boutique hotel. Like Love with a capital L. And Mama Ruisa, our little sanctuary for those three precious nights, sure lived up to all my expectations as one of Rio's most stylish and personal stays. Set in a gated space in one of Rio's trendiest neighbourhoods, Santa Theresa, is the old and stately mansion that once played home to a wealthy Brazilian family and now to guests who wish to find themselves lost in a chic yet very authentic Brazilian experience. From it's stunning decor that brings a touch of French to a strong Brazilian foundation and vastly expansive rooms that make you feel like staying forever to waking each morning to a most magical view of the city from atop Santa Theresa as you have your breakfast on a private balcony and the utmost attentive staff who are there to help you with anything to do with your being in Rio, I cannot recommend this heavenly paradise more. 

Somewhere else to consider staying and one our next trip will definitely consist of a night or forever at is Hotel Saint Teresa. We spent two days chilling here, having lunch and generally just loving every moment in the chic surroundings of this precious place. Rustic yet perfectly polished it's so fabulous on every level and the kind of place that if you never left you'd live in heaven forever!

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Experience

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Unbeknownst to us, and frankly quite the shock, weather wasn't to be on our side during the trip - three days of sunshine out of 16. However, blessed with insane heat and clear blue skies one of the days, one of our favourite parts of Rio was definitely getting to see the city's gorgeous landscape from atop Sugarloaf Mountain. Leaving from Prais Vermelha, a cable car takes you on the first leg of the journey stopping at Urca Mountain (220 meters above sea level). Here you can't help but bow to the breathtaking, 360degree views of the city. Keep going though because even these are nothing to the those that meet you when you reach Sugarloaf Mountain itself, after taking another cable car to the sister mountain sitting right beside it. Towering at 396 meters over sea level you can really see the city in all it's glory, a perfect view of all that rests below including Copacabana Beach, The Christ, Guanabara Bay and the picturesque blue waters of the Atlantic Ocean. 

Allotting an entire morning or afternoon, or day even if you have it to sit and read and take photos, is essential to this activity and something that are we to ever return to Rio we shall most definitely be doing again. Next time at sunset which is supposedly so so magical. 

To feel at home in a city hanging out in a beautiful park is a must for me to know I've truly spent enough time to feel and truly observe the essence of native life. Our Sunday afternoon spent at Parque Lage was that and so much more. Also known as the Taj Mahal of Rio, Parque Lage is like a postcard you step into and never want to leave and one that despite the likes of Snoop, Pharrell and the Black Eyed Peas having shot some of their biggest music videos there, seems to be overshadowed in travel guides by it's nearby sister park, the Botonical Gardens. The mansion that resides at Parque Lage used to be a private home and is now an art school where exhibitions of all kinds are held.

As people watching is one of our guilty pleasures in life and after a cocktail in the mansions cafe, my Love and I blissed out and spent an entire afternoon hanging out here soaking up the most exquisite scenes that are bound to set your heart alight. The gardens are simply divine, not to mention the amazing sounds of the birds and monkeys that all call it home. Funnily enough too, it was all after a (rather disappointingly clouded) journey up to the see Christ the Redeemer who it turns out overlooks the beautiful scene of Parque Lage below.. although on this cloudy day we still couldn't see him from here either. 

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Experience

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Before we left on our travels, I was honestly a little naive to the dangerous side of Rio. I lived in South Africa for a year when I was just 18 and even then I was a little unaware of being an outsider in such foreign lands. As part of my traveller self though I like that, to go somewhere with an open mind and not let a preconceived judgement determine my experience. I mean I knew on a subconscious level that it's not exactly Disneyland but quite frankly, despite the beauty, I was to learn of just how dangerous a city it is. Paul wouldn't let me watch 'City of God' - the infamous movie about Rio's most notorious favela - before leaving (not to mention us embarking on a walking tour of one of the other favelas during our stay) and thank goodness he was so wise. It's INSANE. I like to pride myself on being a slight badass when it comes to facing real-life situations in the face and in my naivety, off we went with two of our divine friends who were in the city and spent an afternoon on a walking tour of one of the city's largest shanty towns. 

Our tour guide was incredible and if you are to one day experience Rio in it's rawest form, there's nobody like him to show you around. He brought us through what is something only your wildest imagination could conjure up. Unlike the townships of Cape Town and the one I worked in in Plettenberg Bay during my time in South Africa, the buildings are of concrete structure and are stronger than most in standing up to the harsh weathers that tear other shanty towns apart around the world. Built on top of each other with literally just enough space to walk between each building, the favela sprawls over miles of acres and is home to some several million people who work here, rear their families and build their daily lives. Our tour guide informed us of how built up it has become and in the past 10 years how much safer it's streets have become in a transformation that has seen drug wars lessened, police enforcement implemented, and the quality of life risen beyond measure for those who call it home. They now even have satellite TV and WiFi - within reason. To us though, it was insane - a world that seems so far from our norm and yet one that once inside you're captivated by it's intensity and almost movie like reality. We learned of how just 10 years ago there is no way even the police would enter, not to mention a white foreigner. Kids running around with machine guns and drug lords killing the next target on their never-ending list of customers in need of their next fix. Life had absolutely no meaning it would seem and those who entered did so at the risk of loosing their life. 

It was one of the most incredible experiences of my life. I loved it. However I'm not going to lie, we most definitely had a feeling that we were encroaching upon territory that was not ours and although some of the locals see it that we bringing awareness to the situation and also a certain amount of business, it still felt somewhat wrong to be there as a tourist. The scariest part, and the moment in which I realise was most real having since seen "City of God" was when two boys, no more than 12 years old, passed us with guns in their hands. Casually speaking, I got lost in the moment thinking perhaps it was just part of a movie. But sadly no, crime and mortality is still very much part of reality in the favelas in Rio. 

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Eat & Drink

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As we were only there for a short time, restaurants and cocktails weren't our main priority - we just wanted to experience as much as possible. Although having said that, we gave it our best shot. Again, as major sushi lovers we had a divine fix of our favoured cuisine at Yumê which is so much fun. With an aquarium floor upon which you sit to enjoy your evening it's such a beautiful spot for couples. And for a drink before or after, Sobe, located right next door is so cool. The cocktail list is extensive and super tempting, especially as you sit outside under the nights stars. 

As I already mentioned, drinks and a late lunch at Parque Lage are the ultimate way to spend any liquid-y lunch and dining at the stunning Térèze at Hotel Saint Teresa is sheer luxury of the chicest kind. Not to mention somewhere to chill by the pool with a cocktail or coffee after. 

Somewhere to delve into the true Brazilian foodie experience is Porcāo Rios, the city's infamous all-you-can-eat meat restaurant. Whether you do the buffet style serving and control your own portions or go all out with the table service - the waiters continue to bring food after food to the table until you flip the coloured pig on the tablet to red, you're sure to get a real Brazilian dinner affair. 

Another place we adored - in all that sparkles on one of the most beautiful date nights ever, was Aprazível. Here you will fall head-over-heels in love with Rio by night. The views of the city are breathtaking and take you away from the world. Dinner here is a treat and something to cherish for a night of celebrations. Make sure that when reserving you ask for a table outside wth the view the restaurant is famous for. 

All in all our first time in Rio was beyond amazing. Weather might not have shown up but despite that, to experience people, places and things so new to us was enthralling far beyond anything a day laying on Copacabana Beach would've allowed. Although visiting it is a must if you've come this far, no matter the weather..

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Shop Your Rio Style

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Love R x

Sketch, London

Conceived in 2002 by restaurateur Mourad Mazouz and infamous French master chef Pierre Gagnnaire, Sketch, London is a slick and desirable destination, or perhaps more accurately an experience, that continues to attract and capture the chic crowd, one hard to get booking after another. Truly 'Instagram' famous since the 2014 opening of ' The Gallery' which is home to a tickiliciously pink creation by Parisian based designer and architect, India Mahdavi. The contemporary pink mix and old-Hollywood style velvet furnishings, in turn plays as a classic backdrop for the most eclectic and 'grammable' experiential exhibit I've had the pleasure of dining amid yet. Showcasing 239 of David Shrigley's original works on the walls, Sketch is a dream any night of the week. It's collision of art and design, humour and panache bring a rather interesting beauty to life. The atmosphere is fun and in fact, it's a rather tempting act to simply stare at the walls, loosing oneself in the mysterious, dark and humorous world of Shrigley's infamous doodles. 

The walls though aren't the sole dwelling place for the exhibition pieces. Tables and their settings are also works of art by Shrigley who said of his ceramic designs, "It is the first artwork that I have made that can go in the dishwasher". Don't forget to check your plate once you're done, trust me. 

And of course, as with any chic collaboration of the creatives, the waiting staff wear the coolest designs by fashion designer Richar Nicoll. 

Although Sketch is admittedly not the new kid on the block these days, it's been on my list for quite some time and upon a recent quickie to London with my best friend I was thrilled to make a fun and fabulous night of it. Admittedly I'm not the girl who goes to places for the love of food but rather the experience, I must stop to say the food is utterly delicious; obviously. I had two starters, the broccoli veloutè to (actually) start and then tuna tartar as my main, both leaving me in the dream of starting all over again to savour every bite. 

Bathroom breaks are off the charts kind of interesting. You've got to see it to believe it. But let's just say it's like landing in space in your very own designer chic shell!

Book your night of fun at sketch.london

And check out DavidShrigley for a taste of why I loved Sketch so much.

Love R x