Crowned the Dark Prince of design or to some the Lord of Darkness, Rick Owens is something of a gothic genius, if not, the epitome of gender neutral dressing and an originator of the idea of goth, but make it fashion.
Born Richard Saturnino Owens, on 18 November 1962 in San Joaquin Valley, California, Owens grew up in a strict and controlled Catholic environment eventually leading him to a deep desire to escape his small town upbringing and make a break for the bright lights of Hollywood. Arriving in L.A, the young designer found himself in the pre-sanitised era of the city’s evolution, a time when L.A was as unwholesome a destination as one could imagine and the hedonistic nature of the time was something he couldn’t resist.
The American born, Paris based designer started his career in fashion studying fabrics at Otis College of Art and Design before dropping out and moving to a more technical college, gaining knowledge in pattern-making and draping, two skills he is now so infamously known for. He then went on to work for sportswear and knock-off brands around L.A. In 1990 he secured a job at Lamy, a design house headed up by designer Michelle Lamy whom Owens later became business partners with and later again married. Just four years after starting with Lamy however he broke out on his own and started his own namesake brand, showcasing his arrival as a womenswear genius. It wasn’t until 2001 though that his brilliance was truly recognised on a more global level when his work came to the attention of just about everyone in fashion, in 2001, when Anna Wintour, at the helm of Vogue, sponsored his first New York Fashion Week showcase after Kate Moss wore one of his signature leather jackets in a fashion story in French Vogue. Working with stylist Panos Yiapanis on the presentation, it was a huge success and the two have collaborated on every single Rick Owens runway show since. The following year Owens was appointed Creative Director ta Revillon, a French fur house, a post he remained in for five years. Around this time he broke into menswear and quickly became known for his interpretation of classic silhouettes.
Owens, at one point, a self-confessed savage drinker, often spent his days and nights on massive boozy benders during a period in his life that now thankfully finds itself in his rear view after he eventually stopped upon realising he felt like death on a daily basis. He ultimately sought help to leave the party when it all got too much. A defining life event in which he had a run in with a mugger in 2003 in L.A, saw him make a permanent move to Paris with Lamy, where the two have called it home ever since.
Over a longstanding and estimable career that has spanned 25 years, Owens has brought to life many of his creative inclinations, from sneakers - his first was named the Dustulator Dunk to furniture - he designed a collection inspired by pieces he originally designed for his Paris HQ. He has collaborated with Adidas and his collections have been the subject of many fashion exhibitions. His work was celebrated in Milan in 2017 with his first major retrospective which chronicled his career to date in a museum exhibition at the Triennale de Milano.
His collections are always in the hottest colour of each season, black on black on black. Always black. Long t-shirts, asymmetric dresses, avant-garde yet wearable, it’s all about the simple pieces , but always making them fashion. Aesthetically he’s got a post-apocalyptic take on dark glamour, a revered niche that has been described as ‘glamour meets grunge’. He is his own thing and in his own words he says “it’s about an appreciation of teenage angst without actually having the angst”. Perhaps some might say it’s an ideal elegance build on a foundation of rock couture.
His pieces can be found in obscure boutiques around the world and on the backs of the hottest names in popular culture including Madonna, Kate Moss, A$AP Rocky and Bieber, Cher and Fergie, Rihanna, Kim Kardashian West, fellow designer Vera Wang and Kanye West.
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